24/05/2018.
Scorchio!!..what a day for a walk...We were camping at Low greenside farm at nearby Ravenstondale,when we decided to have a walk in the Howgill fells. Such a lovely area for walking and reasonably quiet,the fells are sandwiched between the Lake district and the Yorkshire dales, far less touristy but just as beautiful. Its a walk we have done before, a year or so ago, but on that day it rained from leaving the car and the mists came down so we couldn't see a sausage. Its said to be the best area for walking in the Howgills, with the best scenery....so off we went.
We parked up in the layby beside the Cross keys pub, always handy to have a pub to call into at the end of a walk..However not for us today though as this 500 year inn is a Temperance inn, so its a pub that doesn't sell alcohol, whoever heard of anything so ridiculous. We shall have to wait until we get back to Ravenstonedale for our end of walk pint...From the layby we dropped down to cross an attractive little footbridge across the river Rawthey. The massive bulk of Great Dummocks lying ahead [ we will be up there later on the walk].
Rounding a corner and we got the first views of Cautley spout waterfall tumbling down the fellside its a most impressive sight set in a tight ravine, it was some way off yet in the distance, but we could still hear it.
Its the highest waterfall in England. The broken cascade of falls tumble downhill for 650 ft. It became more and more impressive as we neared it...The bloody steep climb alongside it seemed never ending on the hot day.
Luckily there is a stepped path, it was a case of 100 steps, stop for a breather...100 steps, stop for a breather...100 steps, stop for a breather..we eventually made it up to the top where the falls tumble over a lip of rock, a lovely spot in the hills.
We gazed across the valley towards Yarlside, it looked fantastic, I wanted to get up there and walk those grassy slopes, not today though, come on we cant stand here all day. We followed a decent path up alongside the beck. Alfie was in his element plunging into many of the pools along here, many of the deep enough to swim in..We thought about joining him but the nearest we got was a paddle, blooming freezing but boy did it freshen you up and make you feel great.
Pressing on we eventually made it up to a col between the hills to the left lay Calders and to the right lay the Calf..it had to be the Calf...Mecca for all those that walk the Howgills..at 2218ft above sea level it is the highest ground amongst these fells....The summit commands an extensive view from the long sweep of Lakeland mountains down to Morecambe bay and across to the Yorkshire three peak country...We had a lunch break here ...we sat and looked...and dreamed.
There is a small dryed up tarn on the summit where a path heads off in the direction of Yarlside...we looked but couldn't find the path anywhere so headed off back in the direction of Calders,then heading off across moorland in the direction of Cautley crags where I knew there was a decent path back to the waterfall..Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen y Ghent held my attention here as we crossed swathes of cottongrass, nodding in the breeze.........Suddenly and without warning, we were standing on the very edge of the crags..a supreme moment, one I will never forget, for there in front of us lay the best view I have ever seen in all my years of walking...I must have said "I cant believe this" a dozen times, possibly more..my camera went into overdrive.
I could have sat there all day...I reckon its a view that few know about...We walked back along the top of the line of crags...slowly...very slowly..this was too good to hurry,on walks this good every second should be savoured.
Eventually made it back to the top of the waterfall where we retraced our steps downhill, back to the river and the car..should be have a cup of celebratory tea in the cross keys...Nah sod that... this walk needs celebrating properly with a pint in the Kings head at Ravenstonedale....so that's what we did...Cheers...Heres to the Howgills...may my love affair with them long continue.